There’s so much to see on the Oodnadatta Track:   The artworks at Sculpture Park, Alberrie Creek are visible long before you get there.   Amongst them are the two planes, the giant radweed (old windmill), wind chimes and a huge dog (water tank).   Lake Eyre South had plenty of water in it – a bit of a bonus to see it in flood two years in a row.   The locals were saying there was as much water around as last year but the publicity isn’t around this year and there aren’t as many tourists, no problem in getting a flight this year.

More places to visit: Curdimurka (there used to be an annual Ball here, until insurances put an end to it), Mound Springs and Beresford Rail Siding with its old cottages, huge dam and flowing bore.   A makeshift shower has been made at the bore.   The weather was fine, but very windy – shelter was found for a campsite by the old railway bridge near Edward River.

Peake historic site is worth the detour off the track.   Many buildings still stand from this once pastoral station, then supply depot and repeater station for the Overland Telegraph Line.   The mines were only used for about one year.   The Algebuckina Bridge is rather an impressive structure, around 580 metres long and the longest bridge in South Australia.   A very popular campsite with water in the Neales River.   A good campsite was found by the sand hills near Hamilton.

After an icy morning we made our way to Dalhousie Springs via the Pedirka ruins and the Dalhousie ruins.   Dalhousie Springs was a welcome spot for a dip in the 34-38 o water.   Some were up before sunrise the next morning for a quick dip.   It was a beautiful mild morning.   Purni Bore was mostly dry, with just a trickle of water left flowing for the bird life.   It’s a pity we didn’t get to see it in its former glory.    Must admit the shower was warm and welcome!   Camp site was somewhere down the Rig Road, the weather is getting warmer!

Next morning we stopped at the Approdinna Attora Knolls.   After a leisurely stroll to the top we visited Ron Woods’ memorial and the revegetation experimental areas, which have been set up to see the effect that different wild life has on the area.   A cloudy start turned into a lovely warm, sunny day, with a visit to Poeppel Corner and a quick run around South Australia, Northern Territory and Queensland!   Another fine campsite was found somewhere along the QAA Line.

The vegetation was getting drier and the wildflowers were disappearing as we headed east.   Obviously the Queensland side hadn’t seen the same rain that was had on the South Australian side.   As we got closer to Eyre Creek the vegetation was very lush in the valleys.   We met some people heading west who told of a Land Rover Discovery bogged in Eyre Creek.   And bogged he was.   Never underestimate the value of a hand winch.   The Tirfor worked where 2 vehicles with electric winches failed (apparently they were heading to the water instead of the Rover leaving it).   After 3 ½ hours in the water I think the Land Rover was pleased to be on dry land.

We were camp site hunting when we stopped the vehicle only to find a tyre hissing!   Result – campsite decided, 500m south of the Eyre Creek crossing (where the Dalhousie Ranger had advised of a dry crossing).   Time to get out the R&R bead breaker and fix some tyres – we were going nowhere without a spare.

Next morning about 13 km west of Big Red there was a man standing on top of a sand hill with two 20 litre water bottles.   Strange we thought.   Would we mind waiting while he went back to get his cart, which was part way up the hill.   No problems!   He was walking alone from Birdsville to Dalhousie along the French Line, pulling a cart which was strapped around his waist and shoulders.   It carried 3 water bottles plus his supplies.   His days started around 5.30am, stopping from 11am to 3pm, then walking again until about 9pm.

Well at last we arrived at Big Red – a bit of a bump at the bottom slowed down the cars, but with some lowering of tyre pressures we all made it.   It was much drier that last year, with no flowers and no water between the sand hills.   Only thing wrong with having a shower in Birdsville was the suntan washed off!   It can’t really have been dirt can it?   Dinner at the Birdsville Hotel was a must, and very nice it was.

Our rest day in Birdsville was spent visiting the Waddi Trees, dingo caves, Birdsville Lagoon,   Blue Pole Gallery and Coffee House and the Pub again.

It was our last camp fire before going our   separate ways.   A memorable trip with good company and good weather.   It doesn’t get much better than this!

PS :   Some notes of interest for those travelling the Birdsville Track.   Mungerannie has a new toilet/shower block and is still $5.50 pp.   A toilet and camping is available at Cooper Creek and also Clayton Wetlands (there is a walking trail through the Wetlands).   Copley Caravan Park is a pleasant stop – it has an eternal camp fire at the bottom of the park.